Built once · Built right
How we build. And why.
Every method we use, explained in plain English: what we do, why we do it, and what it means for your home. What’s standard and what’s an upgrade is clearly labelled.
Why this page exists
Most of what makes a home last is hidden behind the walls.
Foundations, frames, waterproofing and insulation disappear under concrete, plaster and tiles long before you move in. Once they’re covered, they’re the hardest parts of a home to check, and the most expensive to fix.
This page explains how we build each of them, and why. Every answer is labelled, so you can see what’s included as standard, what’s a recommended upgrade, and what’s your choice.
These are the standards we build to across our second storey additions, home extensions, renovations and custom homes.
28 questions · 7 topics
Find your question.
Pick a topic, then tap any question to open the answer.
Topic 1 of 7
Foundations and slabs.
Standard, upgrade available
Are waffle pod slabs as good as conventional slabs?
Yes. When it’s designed and built properly, a waffle pod slab performs as well as a conventional raft slab, and it’s often more cost-effective and efficient to build. We install a drainage system around the full perimeter of every slab to keep water away from the ground underneath, and we highly recommend taking the piers down to shale or rock for the most stable foundation.
Why clients worry about waffle pods
A waffle pod slab is a concrete slab poured over a grid of polystyrene pods, which sit on a compacted sub-base. Because the slab is sitting on foam, many homeowners assume it’s the weaker option. In practice, it uses less concrete and less excavation than a conventional raft slab and is quicker to build, which is why it’s so widely used. The right slab type for your home is set by your engineer, based on the soil on your site.
The real enemy is water
Waffle pod slabs rarely fail because of the pods. They fail when water gets under the slab and starts eroding the sub-base the pods sit on. Once that base washes out, the slab loses even support. Stopping water at the edge of the slab is what protects it long term.
Perimeter drainage on every slab
We install drainage around the entire perimeter of the slab, whether it’s a waffle pod or a raft slab. It’s built in three layers:
- Ag pipe in a geofabric sock. A slotted agricultural drainage pipe, wrapped in geofabric cloth.
- Blue metal surround. The pipe is bedded and surrounded in blue metal, so water can flow freely to it.
- A second geofabric wrap. The whole blue metal and pipe assembly is wrapped in another layer of geofabric.
The two layers of geofabric keep soil and silt out of the system, so the drain stays clear and keeps working for the life of the home. Ground water is caught at the perimeter and carried away before it can reach the sub-base under the slab.
Piers taken down to shale or rock (recommended)
Piers carry the slab’s load down to solid ground. The engineer specifies how deep each pier must go, based on a set depth and a required soil bearing capacity, measured in kPa. That depth is fully compliant, but it can leave a pier sitting in soil above the shale or rock. For example, the engineering might call for piers 2.5 metres deep, while the shale sits at 4 metres.
We highly recommend taking piers all the way down to shale or rock, so the slab sits on solid ground that won’t compress or shift, protecting against the slab settling or sinking over time. It does add cost: deeper holes mean more excavation, more spoil removal, more machine hours and more concrete. Once piers go beyond roughly 2.5 to 3 metres, they also need steel reinforcement cages. Deeper piers are approved by the engineer on every job where we use them.
Where rock sits close to the surface, there’s no need to pier down to it. Instead, we saw cut the footings and pads directly into the rock, so the slab bears straight onto solid rock.
What it means for you: You get the cost and time savings of a waffle pod slab without the risk people worry about. Every slab we build is protected by perimeter drainage, and with piers taken down to shale or rock, it sits on the most stable foundation possible.
Included as standard
Why are some upstairs floors out of level, and how do you prevent it?
It almost always starts at the bottom. Concrete is poured wet, so no slab is ever perfectly level. It gets close, but never to the millimetre. If the walls are built straight onto it, every small high and low spot carries up through the house to the upstairs floor. We level every wall frame to the millimetre at slab level before anything goes up. From there, everything above follows one true, level line.
Why the slab is never perfect
Concrete is a wet mixture that’s screeded and finished by hand. A good concreter gets it close, but a few millimetres of variation across a slab is normal. On its own, that’s not a problem. It becomes one when the frame is built straight onto it without correcting it.
How small errors grow
Every wall sits on the slab. If one wall starts a few millimetres high and another a few millimetres low, the upstairs floor joists sit on those same walls. The result is an upstairs floor that slopes, doors that won’t close properly, and windows that sit at slightly different heights.
How we get it right
Before any framing goes up, we check the slab along every wall line and find its highest point. That becomes the reference level for the entire house. Every wall plate is then packed up to that exact level, directly on the slab, using purpose-made packers. Where packing goes over 10mm, we grout underneath so the wall has full, solid support. Where a high spot is only small, we grind the concrete down instead.
It sets the standard for the whole build
Once every wall sits on one true level, everything above follows: the upstairs floor, ceilings, window heights, door heads and roof line. Floors run level, doors and windows sit true, and joinery, tiles and finishes line up the way they should.
What it means for you: A level upstairs floor, doors and windows that line up and work properly, and a home that feels right in every room.
How do you protect a home from termites?
Termite protection is one of the most important parts of building in Australia. Wherever possible, we install a physical barrier, either a sheet or a roll system. Where a physical barrier can’t be installed, we use a chemical barrier instead. All our framing timber, whether it’s MGP10 pine or LVL (laminated veneer lumber), is H2 treated, the treatment level designed to protect framing from termites.
Why both layers
Treated timber protects the frame itself, but we still want to stop termites getting into the home in the first place. A barrier at the ground blocks their entry points, and treated timber is the backup if they find another way in.
What it means for you: Protection at the ground and in the frame, set up to avoid termite problems years down the track.
Topic 2 of 7
Structure and framing.
Standard, upgrade available
What bracing do you use, and why?
We use tensioned X bracing on every wall, plus under the subfloor and across the ceiling, so the whole house is braced as one connected system. We don’t use single-diagonal angle braces. Over years of working on new and existing homes, we’ve seen them keep moving even when they’re fully nailed off. Plywood bracing is available as an upgrade on top.
The common types of bracing
- Angle braces. A single metal brace run diagonally across the wall and nailed off. It’s the most common method because it’s fast and cheap.
- Notched timber braces. A diagonal timber brace cut into the studs. You’ll find these in most older homes.
- Tensioned X bracing. Two diagonal braces crossing in an X, pulled tight and anchored at every corner. This is what we use.
- Plywood bracing. Structural sheets fixed over the frame, so the whole wall face acts as a brace.
Why we don’t use angle braces
A single diagonal brace only restrains the wall in one direction, from one corner to the opposite one. The wall can still rack the other way. Over the years, we’ve seen walls with angle braces move even when every nail was in, and the same with the notched timber braces in older homes. As timber dries and nails loosen, a single brace loses its grip and movement builds up. Before the floor or ceiling framing goes on, an angle-braced wall can often be moved by hand at the top plate.
Why tensioned X bracing
An X brace works in both directions and engages all four corners of the wall. Because it’s tensioned, it holds the wall firm before any movement happens, instead of only taking up load once the wall has already shifted. It stays effective as the timber seasons. A correctly tensioned wall stays rigid under lateral load, with no noticeable movement at the top plate.
Under the floor and across the ceiling
We don’t stop at the walls. We also install tensioned X bracing under the subfloor and across the ceiling. The X braces in the floor, walls and ceiling all tie into each other, so the whole house works as one complete brace instead of a set of separately braced walls.
It takes longer, and we accept that
Tension bracing means temporary bracing during framing, extra time getting every wall plumb and square, then a final stage where the bracing is tensioned, levels are rechecked, and the fixings are completed.
Anchoring the bracing
At every bracing end, studs are tied down with steel straps or Pryda structural stud screws. On slabs, the bracing is anchored with 150mm N16 threaded rods epoxy-fixed into the concrete, with washers and nuts. On timber floors, we use structural screws. Bottom plates are screwed and nailed down.
Plywood bracing (optional upgrade)
Plywood bracing is an additional cost, so we offer it as an upgrade. When the budget allows, we recommend it for timber-framed walls and for the house in general. It’s installed as a complete system: bracing-specific nails at the correct spacings, structural screws with washers at every sheet corner, and M16 epoxy-fixed threaded rods at the bottom-plate corners of each panel.
What it means for you: A frame that’s tied together from the floor to the ceiling, resists movement for the life of the home, and gives your plaster, tiles and windows a stable structure to sit on.
Included as standard
Why do doors stop closing and windows stop sliding?
In most homes, it’s the frame above the opening. Over time, an undersized header sags and the frame around it moves, pressing down on the door or window below. The door starts catching, the window starts binding, and cracks appear above the opening. We prevent this by putting a double header over every window and door, using correctly sized beams throughout, and fixing everything well beyond standard nailing.
What homeowners notice
Many people in older homes know the signs:
- A door that used to close easily starts catching on the frame.
- A window or sliding door gets harder to open, then stops sliding properly.
- Cracks appear in the plaster above the opening.
- Architraves start pulling away from the wall.
Why it happens
A header is the beam that carries the load above a window or door. Many homes use a single header, sized to the bare span requirement and fixed with nails only. Over the years, the timber dries, the nails loosen, and the header sags under the weight above it. As it drops, it pushes down on the opening below, which squeezes the door or window frame out of shape.
How we prevent it
- Double headers on every opening. We don’t use single headers, even where the engineering would allow one.
- Glued, screwed and nailed. Each header is laminated with polyurethane adhesive, screwed together, and fixed into the supporting studs with both screws and nails.
- Correctly sized beams throughout. Every beam is sized to carry its load with a margin, so it holds its shape for the life of the home.
- Extra support for wide openings. Openings spanning over 3m get double jack studs, and doubled sill plates where required.
- A frame that doesn’t move. Our tensioned X bracing keeps the walls around each opening rigid, so the frame can’t rack and squeeze the door or window. See how we brace.
What it means for you: Doors that keep closing smoothly, windows and sliders that keep sliding, and walls above them that stay crack-free.
Included as standard
What causes problems with timber floors, and how do you prevent them?
The most common timber floor problems are squeaking, bounce, and cracked tiles or finishes above. All three come from movement in the floor system. We build that movement out: every joist is checked and planed flat, the sheets go down on a 30mm bead of flexible polyurethane adhesive with every tongue-and-groove edge glued, and each sheet is fixed with ring-shank nails, then fully screwed off.
The three common problems
- Squeaking. This is a sheet rubbing against a joist or fixing as you walk on it.
- Bounce or deflection. The floor flexes underfoot, usually from uneven bearing, loose sheets, or beams carrying more load than they were set up for.
- Cracked finishes above. Tiles, grout and plaster crack when the floor beneath them keeps moving.
Most of these problems are locked in before a single sheet is laid. Uneven bearing, high spots on the joists, and adhesive that lets go over time are the usual causes.
Level from the ground up
We correct level at slab and wall plate stage, so the floor system sits on a flat, even bearing surface. An uneven base leaves air pockets under the sheets, stops the adhesive bridging properly, and concentrates load in spots. That leads to movement, and movement leads to squeaks.
Every joist checked and planed flat
Before any sheets go down, every joist is checked with a straightedge for crowning, weather swelling and high spots. Anything out is planed back so the sheets sit on a truly flat surface.
Polyurethane adhesive, 30mm bead
Many standard construction adhesives go brittle as they age. Once brittle, they can’t handle the constant flex of foot traffic, so they crack and let go, and that’s usually when the squeaking starts. We use polyurethane adhesive only, because it stays flexible for its whole lifespan. It’s run in a 30mm bead along every joist, giving full coverage and a cushion between the joist and the sheet. We also glue every tongue-and-groove edge and butt joint, so the sheets are bonded to each other as well as to the joists. Sealing every join also helps protect the sheet edges from rain while the house is open to the weather during the build.
Nailed, then screwed
Sheets are fixed with ring-shank nails, which grip the timber and resist working loose. Then every sheet is fully screwed off. Expansion joints go in to the flooring manufacturer’s requirements, so the floor can move as designed without buckling.
Beams and connections
Double beams carrying loads from above are glued with polyurethane adhesive and bolted together. We don’t put doubled I-joists under load-bearing walls, because I-joists aren’t designed to carry concentrated loads that way. Where joists meet a steel beam, the beam is packed flush with solid timber and bolted right through. Joists sit in connector brackets with a small amount of polyurethane adhesive inside each bracket, which stops timber and steel ticking against each other.
Bracing under the floor
Where it applies, we install tensioned X bracing under the joists that ties the corners of the structure together and connects into the wall and ceiling bracing. This cuts racking and long-term movement in the whole floor. See how we brace.
What it means for you: A floor that feels solid underfoot, is built to stay quiet, and gives tiles and finishes above a stable base.
Are cracks normal in a new house or extension?
Major cracks shouldn’t happen. Fine hairline cracks can still appear as a new building settles, but we build to keep movement to a minimum, and if settlement cracks do appear, we come back and repair them.
What’s normal and what isn’t
The NSW Guide to Standards and Tolerances sets the limits:
- Plaster and cornices. A crack is a defect if it’s there at handover, or wider than 1mm within the first 24 months.
- Where different materials meet, such as plaster against timber or brick: a defect if wider than 1mm in the first 12 months, or wider than 2mm after that.
- Brick and masonry walls. Cracks under 1mm are classed as very slight. Cracks up to 5mm are monitored for 12 months and repaired if they’re still there. Anything wider needs investigation and repair.
Why cracks happen
Cracks come from movement. Footings are designed to move within set limits, so some minor movement is expected in any home, and trees, heavy garden watering and leaks near the house can all add to it. Timber also shrinks as it dries, so plasterboard fixed over a wet frame can crack as the timber shrinks behind it.
It starts at the foundations
We highly recommend taking piers and screw piles down to shale or solid rock instead of stopping at the specified depth. When the footings sit on material that won’t compress, the house above has nothing to settle into. See slabs and piers.
Then the slab
Water under a slab changes the soil beneath it. It softens, shifts and can wash away the sub-base. Our perimeter drainage keeps water away from the ground under the slab, so the soil stays stable and the slab stays put.
Then the frame
A frame that racks or flexes passes that movement straight into the plaster. We use tensioned X bracing that ties all four corners of each wall together and holds them firm, plus fixings well beyond standard nailing. The frame behaves as one rigid structure. See how we brace.
We let the frame dry before it’s lined
Timber framing often gets wet during a build. Lining a wet frame locks the moisture in, and as the timber dries out and shrinks, the plaster over it cracks. We let the frame dry out before any sheeting goes on.
If a hairline crack does appear
We build so we don’t expect hairline cracks, but settlement can never be ruled out completely. If settlement causes hairline cracks, we come back and repair them.
What it means for you: A structure built to stay still, from the foundations to the frame, and if settlement does leave a hairline crack, we fix it.
Topic 3 of 7
Roofs and gutters.
Your choice
Should I choose a tile or Colorbond roof?
It comes down to personal preference, and we build both. Tiles, from concrete and terracotta through to slate, give a classic look and suit many existing Sydney homes. Colorbond, in corrugated, standing seam or concealed-fix profiles like Klip-Lok, is much lighter and suits lower roof pitches and modern designs. Whichever you choose, the roof is framed and engineered to carry it.
Tiled roofs
- Concrete tiles. The most common and most affordable tile, in a wide range of colours and profiles.
- Terracotta tiles. Fired clay that holds its colour for decades. It costs more than concrete.
- Slate. Natural stone at the premium end of the market. Very long-lasting, and the heaviest option.
Tiles are heavy, so the roof frame is sized to carry them. See roof sag. Ridge capping is bedded and pointed, and the pointing may need attention over the years.
Colorbond roofs
- Corrugated. The classic Australian profile. Cost-effective, and it suits both traditional and modern homes.
- Standing seam. Clean, flat pans with raised seams and no exposed fixings, for a sleek, architectural look.
- Concealed-fix, such as Klip-Lok. The sheets clip onto brackets with no screws through the surface, and they suit low-pitch roofs.
Metal roofing is far lighter than tiles and can run at much lower pitches, which suits skillion and low-profile designs. Rain noise can be reduced with an insulation blanket under the sheets.
What to weigh up
- Look. Matching the existing roof, or contrasting with it.
- Weight. A tiled roof is much heavier. On a second storey, the framing and the structure below are engineered to carry it. See can my house take a second storey?
- Roof pitch. Tiles need a steeper pitch. Metal can go much flatter.
- Noise. Tiles are quieter in heavy rain. Metal is quieter with a blanket underneath.
- Budget. Concrete tiles and corrugated sit at the more affordable end. Terracotta, standing seam and slate cost more.
What it means for you: The roof you want, framed and engineered to carry it properly for the life of the home.
Included as standard
Hand-cut roof or trusses: which is better?
We build hand-cut roofs. Every rafter, ridge, hip and strut is cut and fitted on site. We prefer them because they give a stronger roof frame and leave open space in the roof for services, storage and future changes.
Trusses and hand-cut roofs
Trusses are triangular frames made in a factory and lifted onto the walls. They’re quick to install, but the roof space is filled with webbing, which limits what you can do with it later. A hand-cut roof is framed on site from individual rafters, ridges, hips, purlins and struts.
Why we prefer hand-cut
- A stronger roof. The load travels through rafters, purlins and struts down to the walls, and we add extra struts and braces instead of running timber to its maximum spans. See roof sag.
- More usable space. With no truss webbing, there’s room for ducted air conditioning, services and storage, and room to make changes in the future.
What it means for you: A strong roof frame, with open space above the ceiling for services today and changes down the track.
Included as standard
Will my roof sag over time?
Not if it’s framed to carry the load properly. We install additional struts and braces instead of running timber out to its maximum allowable spans, which takes load off every member. We also frame in a controlled upward bow of up to 10mm, so the roof settles to level under its weight instead of sagging below it.
Why roofs sag
Timber under constant load slowly weakens and compresses over the years. A roof framed with timber spanning as far as it’s allowed to go keeps every member working hard for its whole life, and that’s when sag sets in.
Extra struts and braces
Span tables set the furthest a piece of timber is allowed to span. We don’t frame right up to those limits. We add struts and braces so each rafter, purlin and beam carries less load. Less load on the timber means less long-term weakening, and a roof that holds its shape for longer.
Pre-camber
When the strut system goes in, we set a controlled upward bow of up to 10mm. It’s applied consistently and checked with string lines, especially on longer spans and heavy roofs. As the timber takes the roof load, it settles back to level. Collar ties are added where practical to control rafter spread.
What it means for you: A roof that ends up straight under load and stays that way, even with heavy materials like tiles or slate.
Why do gutters overflow in heavy rain, and how are they sized?
Gutters overflow when there isn’t enough gutter or downpipe capacity for the roof they drain, or when they block. On our builds, the gutters, downpipes and stormwater system are designed by a stormwater engineer for your roof and your site.
What the building code requires
The National Construction Code sets rules for roof drainage on houses, including:
- Downpipes spaced so each one serves no more than 12 metres of gutter.
- Downpipes placed as close as practicable to valley gutters.
- Overflow measures, such as slotted gutters or overflow weirs, so that if a gutter blocks in a heavy storm, water spills away from the house instead of back inside.
Engineered for your home
Our stormwater engineer sizes the gutters, downpipes and drainage for your roof area and your site, so the whole system works together, from the roof down to the stormwater connection.
Keeping it working
Gutters need regular cleaning, especially near trees. A blocked gutter will overflow on even the best-designed system.
What it means for you: A roof drainage system designed for your home, with overflow built in for heavy storms.
Topic 4 of 7
Wet areas and tiling.
Included as standard
How do you waterproof bathrooms and wet areas?
Every wet area gets a four-coat membrane system: two coats under the screed and two on top, with a puddle flange at both levels. Before any membrane goes down, we grind the concrete back 2 to 3mm, on new builds and renovations alike, so the membrane bonds to clean, sound concrete.
We grind every slab, new or old
By the time a build reaches the waterproofing stage, even a brand new slab is covered in plaster dust, gyprock compound, dirt and general site contaminants. A membrane is only as good as the surface it sticks to. So we grind 2 to 3mm off the top to expose fresh concrete on every job, whether the slab went down last month or forty years ago.
Falls built into the base
On new builds and extensions, the falls to the floor waste are formed in the slab itself. On renovations, we clean, prime and pour a self-levelling base with the falls built in. Either way, water always runs to the drain.
Two coats below the screed, two coats on top
The first two coats go straight onto the prepared concrete. Once the sand and cement screed is laid, it gets another two coats before tiling. That gives you two complete membranes. Water that gets past the tiles and grout is stopped by the top layer, and the bottom layer sits underneath as a backup. The screed between the two membranes can be reinforced with fibre or mesh, which we recommend, so it resists cracking and keeps the membranes protected. See reinforced screeds.
A puddle flange at both levels
A puddle flange is the collar that seals the membrane to the floor waste. Australian Standard AS 3740 requires one under the screed, and that’s where most systems stop, with the top layer of waterproofing simply run around the waste. We fit a second puddle flange at the top of the screed, so both membranes are sealed to the drain. The floor waste is one of the most common places for a bathroom to leak, so we double the protection there.
Water stops in before the door jambs
The water stop angle at the bathroom doorway keeps water inside the wet area. AS 3740 requires it to run the full width of the opening, frame to frame or brick to brick, so we install them before the door jambs go in. Fitting them between the jambs afterwards leaves gaps at each end.
Renovations get the same system
Most older bathrooms were built without puddle flanges. We grind back to fresh concrete, install new puddle flanges, clean, prime and pour a self-levelled base with falls, then apply the same two-below, two-above system with the double flange. Your renovated bathroom gets the same waterproofing as a new build.
Underfloor heating stays protected
If you’re adding electric underfloor heating, the mats sit between the two membranes, inside the screed, so your bathroom stays fully protected.
A stable structure protects your waterproofing
Waterproofing is only as good as the structure it sits on. If the floor or frame keeps moving, that movement stresses the membrane, the tiles and the grout, and that’s where many leaks start. Our tensioned bracing, glued and screwed floors, and reinforced screeds keep the structure still, so the waterproofing can do its job for the long term.
What it means for you: Two complete membranes, two sealed puddle flanges, and water stops installed the right way. If water ever gets past the top layer, there’s a second full membrane underneath to stop it.
Recommended upgrade
Why do you reinforce your screeds?
A screed is the sand and cement bed that tiles are laid on. We typically screed every tiled floor in the home, and we recommend reinforcing it, usually with fibres mixed through the screed, or with steel mesh on thicker screeds. A standard unreinforced screed can crack as the building moves and settles. A reinforced screed is much stronger and far more resistant to cracking, for a small additional cost.
What a screed does
The screed gives tiles a solid, flat and level base right through the home, and sets the falls to the drains in wet areas. In bathrooms, it also sits between our two waterproofing membranes. If a screed cracks, the cracks can travel up into the tiles and grout and, in wet areas, put stress on the waterproofing.
Fibre reinforcement
Fibre comes in bags and is mixed straight into the screed, so it spreads evenly through the whole bed. It works especially well on thinner screeds, where there isn’t enough depth for mesh. It’s our usual choice.
Mesh reinforcement
On thicker screeds, we can use reinforcing mesh instead. Mesh only works if it’s fully embedded, with enough screed both under and over it, so it’s reserved for screeds with the depth to cover it properly.
Why it matters
A reinforced screed holds together as one strong slab, instead of cracking into sections. That protects the tiles and grout above, and the waterproofing it sits between, for the long term.
What it means for you: A stronger, crack-resistant base under every tiled floor in your home, so fewer cracked tiles and less grout failure, plus extra protection for the waterproofing in your wet areas. It’s one of the most cost-effective upgrades on this page.
Recommended upgrade
How do you finish tiles around windows?
We recommend mitring the tile edges around windows instead of using aluminium trim angles. Mitred edges meet cleanly at a sharp corner with no visible metal strip. It takes more time and skill, so it’s offered as an upgrade, but it’s the finish we recommend for a clean, high-end look.
Topic 5 of 7
Comfort and energy.
Standard spec, adjustable
What insulation do you use?
We specify high-rated insulation as standard: R6 ceiling batts where the roof space allows (R5 where it’s tight) and high-density R2.7 batts in external walls, the highest rating that fits a standard wall frame. Acoustic insulation between floors and in internal walls is an optional upgrade we highly recommend. Your BASIX certificate sets the minimum insulation for your home, and we aim to go well above it, keeping your home cooler in summer and warmer in winter.
Noise
For noise between rooms and between levels, we highly recommend our acoustic insulation upgrade. It matters most in two-storey homes and in bedrooms near living areas. See acoustic insulation.
Heating and cooling
Better insulation holds your home’s temperature. It reduces how hard your heating and cooling work, and lowers running costs.
Your choice
If you’d prefer to save on cost, you can choose a lower R-value. It’s one of the few places where we’re happy to adjust the spec, because it doesn’t affect the structure.
What it means for you: A quieter, more comfortable home that’s cheaper to heat and cool.
Recommended upgrade
What acoustic insulation do you use between floors?
We highly recommend acoustic insulation between floors and in internal walls, and offer it as an upgrade. On every double storey home, we also lag the waste pipes as standard, so you don’t hear water running through the walls and ceilings.
Where the noise comes from
In a two-storey home, the usual complaints are footsteps from upstairs, voices carrying between bedrooms, and water rushing through pipes in the walls.
Acoustic insulation (recommended upgrade)
Acoustic batts are denser than standard insulation and are designed to absorb sound. Installed between the floor joists and in internal walls, they cut the noise moving between levels and between rooms. It’s far easier to install during the build, while the frame is still open, which is why we highly recommend it.
Lagged pipes (standard on double storey homes)
Waste pipes running through upper floors and walls are wrapped in acoustic lagging, which deadens the sound of water from showers, toilets and baths.
Solid-core doors (optional)
Most internal doors are hollow-core. Solid-core doors block far more sound and are available as an option, for example on bedrooms or a study.
What it means for you: A quieter home, where the noise in one room stays in that room.
Standard, upgrade available
Why is there condensation or mould in my new house?
New homes are built far more airtight than older ones, so moisture from showers, cooking and everyday living has fewer ways out. If it isn’t managed, it condenses on cold surfaces and can lead to mould. We use a breathable wall wrap from pro clima that lets moisture escape from the walls, and exhaust fans ducted outside, as the building code now requires.
What the code now requires
Since October 2023, new NSW homes must meet the National Construction Code’s condensation rules:
- Breathable wall wraps. The wrap behind the cladding must let water vapour pass through, so moisture inside the wall can dry out.
- Exhaust fans ducted outside. Bathroom, laundry and kitchen exhausts must discharge outdoors, never into the roof space.
- Run-on timers. In rooms without an openable window, the fan keeps running for 10 minutes after the light goes off.
What we use
Every home gets a breathable wall wrap from pro clima, a German-made membrane system that lets the wall breathe while keeping wind and rain out. For clients who want the highest performance, our passive house upgrade wraps the whole home in an airtight, breathable membrane system, with heat recovery ventilation supplying fresh, filtered air all year.
Your part
Once a home is built to the code, the NSW Guide to Standards and Tolerances says controlling condensation through everyday ventilation is the owner’s responsibility. A few habits make a big difference:
- Run the exhaust fan during every shower and for a while after.
- Use the range hood when cooking.
- Open windows regularly, especially in winter.
- Avoid drying clothes indoors without ventilation.
What it means for you: A home that breathes properly, with the right membranes and ventilation to keep condensation and mould under control.
Your choice
Double brick or timber frame: which is better?
Both can make a great home, but they perform differently. Double brick is solid, quiet and has high thermal mass, but without insulation the wall itself has a low R-value, and most Sydney double brick homes are built without any. A timber frame lets us fit much thicker insulation and seal the whole building, which gives the highest insulation performance. We build both double brick and timber-framed homes, and we’ll build whichever suits you. We’ll walk you through the trade-offs so you can choose with the full picture.
Double brick without insulation
Many people assume double brick is naturally well insulated. On its own, a double brick wall has a total R-value of only around R0.4 to R0.5. What double brick does well is thermal mass: the brick absorbs heat slowly and releases it slowly, which evens out temperature swings. Paired with standard single-glazed windows, though, a lot of heat still moves in and out of the home.
Insulating a double brick cavity
We can insulate between the two skins of brick using a 50mm foil-faced rigid insulation board. It’s fitted over the brick ties on spacers so it sits in the centre of the cavity, and every join is taped, including around each brick tie, so the layer stays continuous and air leakage is kept to a minimum. That takes the wall from around R0.4 to roughly R1.7 to R2.0, a big improvement. It does need a wider cavity, and it adds cost, and it still sits below what a timber frame can reach.
Timber frame
Our standard wall frame uses 90mm studs, which fit high-density batts up to around R2.7. For clients who want the highest insulation performance, we offer 140mm studs as an upgrade. The 140mm timber costs about two and a half times as much per metre, but it lets us install high-density batts up to R4.0, well beyond an insulated double brick wall. Combined with an airtight wrap and sarking system that runs continuously from the roof down to the walls, the whole building envelope is sealed. That stops draughts and air leaks, which often account for more heat loss than the walls themselves.
Windows matter as much as walls
Whichever wall system you choose, windows are usually the weakest point. For the best result, we recommend double-glazed windows in thermally broken frames. They’re a significant investment, so we’ll talk through the options and costs with you.
What it means for you:
- Double brick gives you solidity and thermal mass, and we can insulate the cavity to improve it.
- Timber frame gives you strong insulation as standard, and the highest insulation and airtightness available with the 140mm upgrade.
- Whichever you choose, the walls, roof, insulation, airtightness and windows need to work together as one system, and we build it to suit what you want from your home.
Topic 6 of 7
Checking our work.
What are the building inspection stages?
In NSW, the principal certifier must inspect your build at set critical stages, from the footings through to a final inspection. On our builds, the structural engineer also inspects the structure, and you’re welcome to bring your own independent inspector at the key stages.
The certifier’s critical stage inspections
For a house in NSW, the certifier inspects:
- After excavation, before the footings are poured.
- Before any reinforced concrete is poured, such as the slab.
- Before the frame is covered: the frame, or pre-plaster, inspection.
- Before the wet-area waterproofing is covered.
- Before the stormwater connections are covered.
- A final inspection before the occupation certificate is issued.
The engineer’s inspections
On top of the certifier’s inspections, the structural engineer inspects the structure during the build, checking the work matches their design.
Your own inspector
You’re welcome to bring an independent inspector at the critical stages. See bringing your own inspector.
What disappears after each stage
Once the slab is poured, the frame is lined or the waterproofing is tiled over, that work can’t be seen again. That’s why every stage is inspected before it’s covered, and why we photograph it. See your photo record.
What it means for you: Every critical part of your home is checked by the certifier and the engineer before it’s covered up, with a record you keep.
Your choice
Can I bring my own building inspector?
Yes. We’re more than happy for you to bring an independent building inspector at the critical stages: before the slab is poured, after framing and before sheeting, and after waterproofing and before the screed.
The best stages to book
- Before the slab is poured. To check the steel reinforcement and set-up before concrete covers it.
- After framing, before sheeting. To check the frame, bracing and fixings before the plaster goes on.
- After waterproofing, before the screed. To check the first membrane coats and the puddle flanges before they’re covered.
How it works
Tell us which stages you’d like inspected, and we’ll let you know when each one is coming up.
What it means for you: An independent set of eyes on your build, at the moments that matter most.
Included as standard
How do I get a waterproofing certificate, and how do I know it was done right?
Every home we build comes with a waterproofing package at handover: the waterproofing certificates, photos of the work, and the signed inspection and test plans (ITPs). The certifier also inspects the waterproofing before it’s covered, so it’s checked and documented before any tiles go down.
What’s in your waterproofing package
- Waterproofing certificates. Confirming the membranes in your wet areas were installed to the Australian Standard.
- Photos. Taken during waterproofing, before the work is covered.
- Inspection and test plans (ITPs). Checklists signed off at each step of the waterproofing, from preparing the surface to the final coat.
Independent checks
The certifier must inspect wet-area waterproofing before it’s covered. You’re also welcome to have your own inspector check it after the waterproofing and before the screed. See bringing your own inspector.
How we waterproof
Four coats, two under the screed and two on top, with a puddle flange at both levels. See how we waterproof.
What it means for you: Proof, in writing and in photos, that the waterproofing behind your tiles was done properly.
Standard, upgrade available
What records do I get of what's behind the walls?
Every client gets a photo record of the build before the walls and ceilings are lined, included in your handover package. You can also upgrade to a full 3D scan of the whole house before sheeting.
Why it matters
Once the plaster goes on, the frame, pipes, wiring and waterproofing are hidden for good. Years later, when you want to hang something heavy, add a power point, renovate or track down a leak, the record shows you exactly what’s behind the wall.
Standard: photo record
Photos of the build before lining are included in your handover package.
Upgrade: 3D scan
A 3D scan captures the whole house before sheeting, so you can move through it virtually and see the frame, pipes and cables in place.
What it means for you: A permanent record of what’s inside your walls, for repairs, renovations and peace of mind.
What does "within tolerance" mean under the NSW Guide to Standards and Tolerances?
In NSW, the benchmark is the NSW Guide to Standards and Tolerances, published by the NSW Government. It sets how far floors, walls, plaster, tiles and doors can vary before the work counts as defective. We hold ourselves to tighter tolerances than the guide.
The key NSW limits
| Item | When it counts as a defect |
|---|---|
| Floor level (concrete or timber) | Within 24 months of handover, more than 10mm out in any room, 4mm in any 2m length, or 20mm across the whole house |
| Extensions | The new floor levels don’t match the existing house |
| Wall frames | More than 5mm out of plumb over 1.8m, or more than 4mm of bow in any 2m |
| Finished walls | More than 5mm out of plumb or bowed, measured with a 1.8m straight edge |
| Plaster and cornice cracks | Visible at handover, or wider than 1mm within 24 months |
| Tiles | More than a 2mm lip between neighbouring tiles (1.5mm for polished tiles), or more than 4mm out of flat over 2m |
| Internal doors | Uneven gaps between door and frame, or gaps outside 2mm to 5mm |
| Doors and windows | Binding or jamming within 3 months because of workmanship |
| Squeaky floors | Floors that consistently squeak underfoot within 24 months |
How defects are judged
Finishes are judged from a normal viewing position: 1.5 metres or more away, in ordinary, diffused light. A torch held flat against a wall will show small marks on almost any surface, so the guide sets one fair way to look.
How our methods land inside these limits
Level floors start at the slab, where we set every wall frame to one level line. Straight walls come from checked studs and tensioned bracing. Quiet floors come from flat joists and glued, screwed sheets. See level floors, bracing and timber floors.
What it means for you: A published standard to measure your home against, and a builder who holds itself to tighter tolerances.
Topic 7 of 7
Process, pricing and compliance.
Can my house take a second storey?
It depends on your existing house, which is why every second storey starts with a structural engineer. The engineer checks your existing footings and structure, and the second storey is then designed around what your home can carry, including any strengthening the engineer specifies.
What gets checked
The engineer assesses the existing footings, walls and structure that will carry the new level.
Designed around your house
Everything is designed by a structural engineer: the new floor, walls and roof, and how the load travels down through the existing house to the ground.
Your roof choice matters
A lighter roof puts less load on the existing structure, which is one of the things to weigh up when choosing tiles or Colorbond. See tile or Colorbond.
What it means for you: A second storey designed for your house as it is, by an engineer, before any work starts.
How do you build a second storey addition?
We disconnect services, put up scaffolding, remove only the part of the roof where the addition goes, then build the new floor, walls and roof and get it weathertight. After that comes cladding, windows, services, plaster, wet areas, finishes, and the stairs that connect the new level to the house.
The typical sequence
- Disconnect services in the work area.
- Erect scaffolding around the work area.
- Remove part of the roof, only the section where the addition goes.
- Build the new subfloor over the existing house.
- Run tarps over the work area, then frame the walls and construct the new timber roof frame.
- Install the roofing, tiles or Colorbond, your choice.
- Install flashings and external cladding, once the roof is on.
- Install windows.
- Rough-in services: electrical, plumbing, and heating and cooling.
- Plaster.
- Waterproof, then tile and lay floor coverings.
- Paint and complete the fit-off, including carpentry, electrical and plumbing.
- Paint the outside, clean and caulk the windows, and caulk all external joints.
- Remove the scaffolding.
- Build the stairs connecting the new level to the main house. This is the last step.
That’s a simplified version. Every second storey has its own engineering and sequencing, and we walk you through yours in detail before we start.
Weather protection
Rain can’t always be avoided while the roof is open, so we plan the roof-off stages around the forecast and use tarps to protect the house below. Where the project allows, we use an engineered scaffold that runs around the full perimeter and is designed to carry a tarp roof over the whole work area. The new floor sheets are glued along every join, which helps protect their edges from rain while the roof is open.
What it means for you: A clear, staged process, with your home kept as protected as possible while the roof is open.
Do your methods follow the engineering and building codes?
Yes. Every build follows the project’s engineering, the National Construction Code (NCC) and the relevant Australian Standards. They’re the baseline. Many of our methods go beyond them, and we never go against them. Building above standard does cost more, so how far we go on your project depends on your budget.
The baseline
Your engineer designs the structure, and the NCC and Australian Standards set the minimum requirements every home must meet. Every home we build meets all of them.
Where we go further
Throughout this page, you’ll see where we build above that baseline: piers taken down to shale or rock, double headers on every opening, tensioned X bracing through the floor, walls and ceiling, polyurethane-glued and screwed floors, reinforced screeds, and extra struts in the roof. These are above-standard construction methods, based on years of seeing where homes fail over time. Every one is done in line with the engineer’s design, and approved by the engineer where required.
Above-standard building, honest pricing
Building above standard means pricing above standard. Some of our methods are included in every build. Others depend on your budget, and we’ll be upfront in your quote about what’s included and what’s optional. If a method isn’t in your budget, we’ll explain what it does so you can decide.
What it means for you: A fully engineered, compliant home as the baseline, with extra durability built in to match your budget.
Why is your quote higher than some other builders?
Because we build everything properly, and those extras add up. A cheaper quote usually doesn’t come from one big saving. It comes from cutting small corners in hundreds of places. We’d rather build it right than build it cheap.
Where the difference comes from
- Piers taken down to shale or rock (recommended)
- Perimeter drainage around every slab
- Four-coat waterproofing with double puddle flanges
- Double headers over every opening
- Tensioned X bracing through the floor, walls and ceiling
- Polyurethane-glued, screwed floors
- Hand-cut roofs
- Extra struts and pre-camber in the roof
- Lagged waste pipes on double storey homes
- Engineer inspections on top of the certifier’s
- Reinforced screeds (recommended upgrade)
- Mitred tile edges (recommended upgrade)
- Acoustic insulation between floors (recommended upgrade)
Each one adds cost, and each one has a reason, which you can read about on this page.
Where you can save
Your finishes are your choice. Choosing more affordable tapware, door handles or fittings lowers the price. But your structure and the quality of the work stay the same, whatever level of finishes you choose.
What it means for you: You’re paying for a home built to last, with fewer repairs down the track.
Your choice
What's the difference between fixed price and cost plus contracts?
We build under a custom building contract, fixed price or cost plus depending on the project. With fixed price, you get a detailed scope of works and an agreed price for everything in it. With cost plus, you pay what the build actually costs us, plus our agreed margin.
Fixed price
Our scope of works lists every item we’ve priced. For things you haven’t chosen yet, like tapware, handles, hinges and fittings, we include allowances based on the finish level you want: entry-level, mid-range or high-end. Choosing a lower finish level only changes the products. It never changes the structure or the quality of the build.
Variations
Anything outside the scope of works is a variation. Variations are managed through our client portal, where you can approve or decline each one instantly, and your building contract updates automatically.
Cost plus
You still receive an estimate and a scope of works. The difference is that you pay what the build actually costs us, plus our agreed margin. Cost plus is fully transparent. Because you pay the actual cost, we don’t need to build large contingencies into the price for things that might or might not be needed. You only pay for what the job actually requires. It also takes away any pressure on the builder to cut corners when costs rise.
What it means for you: A clear contract either way. Fixed price gives you price certainty, and cost plus gives you full transparency.
Talk to a builder
Want to talk through your build?
Bring your plans or just your ideas. We’ll walk you through which of these methods suit your home and your budget, and be upfront about what’s included and what’s optional.
NSW Builder’s Licence 487370C · Master Builders NSW member
